Where Does Mold Grow?

First, it's important to know where to look. Mold tends to prefer cold, dark, and moist spaces. You probably won't find it in your living room, but your attic and crawlspace are much more likely hiding spots.

Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

And that's not all. You might also find it in doorways, windows, heating and air conditioning systems. It enters your home either through the air or by being attached to other moldy items like old shoes or newspapers. Once it's there, it's difficult to get rid of.

Signs of Mold

The health risks of mold make looking for early signs that it's growing into your home absolutely crucial. If you see even subtle signs, it might be time to call for professional help to take care of the remediation. Some of these signs include:

Irritated lungs and breathing, similar to allergy symptoms.

A musty smell in the home or areas of the house.

Visible mold, both black and with potentially colored spots.

Water leaks, past flooding, or persistent condensation.

Rust and warping of materials due to humidity.

Most of these don't necessarily point directly to mold growth. They just point towards an environment that encourages this growth. That's why simply looking for them doesn't tend to be enough. A more comprehensive inspection is vital to making sure you know about any potential problems.

Can Mold Harm Humans?

The problems with mold are much more than just an inconvenience. Studies have repeatedly shown the many health risks that the spores can bring with them. In fact, mold has been linked to anything from chronic coughs to allergic reactions, skin rashes, red eyes, and more. In some cases, it can get worse.

The reason mold removal services tend to be so important is what mold does to the health of some of the most vulnerable people around us. Most are particularly dangerous for those of us with autoimmune disorders, chronic lung disease, strong allergies, or asthma. And of course, it's worse for infants, children, and the elderly, whose immune systems might not be able to fight against it.

The lesson is clear: you don't want and probably can't afford to have mold in your home. Unfortunately, due to its favorite locations, it could also be difficult to find at times. A thorough inspection can help you find it, but looking out for early growth signs is also important.

Mold Prevention Tips

Ideally, you never let it get to a point where removal becomes a necessity. In the interest of your health and your home's value, you want to make sure that you can prevent rather than remediate the mold. A few tips can help you achieve that goal:

Keep the humidity in your home low, preferably under 40%.

Regularly check your home, particularly the potential problem spots mentioned above, for growth and take care of it early when needed.

Don't let wet areas stay wet. Dry them to make sure they don't become a hospitable environment.

During renovations, invest in mold-resistant drywall and sheetrock to create a less preferable environment.

Regularly clean your roof gutters to avoid any potential leaks or water entering the home in hidden spots.

Clean mold problems immediately, rather than letting it grow into a more significant problem.

It pays to be proactive. Still, you can't be expected to know every square inch of your home. In addition to these general tips, it pays to have regular mold inspections, both for your peace of mind and to be able to detect issues before they become major problems.

Where Does Mold Grow?

First, it's important to know where to look. Mold tends to prefer cold, dark, and moist spaces. You probably won't find it in your living room, but your attic and crawlspace are much more likely hiding spots.

Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

And that's not all. You might also find it in doorways, windows, heating, and air conditioning systems. It enters your home either through the air or by being attached to other moldy items like old shoes or newspapers. Once it's there, it's difficult to get rid of.

Signs of Mold

The health risks of mold make looking for early signs that it's growing into your home absolutely crucial. If you see even subtle signs, it might be time to call for professional help to take care of the remediation. Some of these signs include:

Irritated lungs and breathing, similar to allergy symptoms.

A musty smell in the home or areas of the house.

Visible mold, both black and with potentially colored spots.

Water leaks, past flooding, or persistent condensation.

Rust and warping of materials due to humidity.

Most of these don't necessarily point directly to mold growth. They just point towards an environment that encourages this growth. That's why simply looking for them doesn't tend to be enough. A more comprehensive inspection is vital to making sure you know about any potential problems.

Can Mold Harm Humans?

The problems with mold are much more than just an inconvenience. Studies have repeatedly shown the many health risks that spores can bring with them. In fact, mold has been linked to anything from chronic coughs to allergic reactions, skin rashes, red eyes, and more. In some cases, it can get worse.

The reason mold removal services tend to be so important is what mold does to the health of some of the most vulnerable people around us. Most are particularly dangerous for those of us with autoimmune disorders, chronic lung disease, strong allergies, or asthma. And of course, it's worse for infants, children, and the elderly, whose immune systems might not be able to fight against it.

The lesson is clear: you don't want and probably can't afford to have mold in your home. Unfortunately, due to its favorite locations, it could also be difficult to find at times. A thorough inspection can help you find it, but looking out for early growth signs is also important.

Mold Prevention Tips

Ideally, you never let it get to a point where removal becomes a necessity. In the interest of your health and your home's value, you want to make sure that you can prevent rather than remediate the mold. A few tips can help you achieve that goal:

Keep the humidity in your home low, preferably under 40%.

Regularly check your home, particularly the potential problem spots mentioned above, for growth and take care of it early when needed.

Don't let wet areas stay wet. Dry them to make sure they don't become a hospitable environment.

During renovations, invest in mold-resistant drywall and sheetrock to create a less preferable environment.

Regularly clean your roof gutters to avoid any potential leaks or water entering the home in hidden spots.

Clean mold problems immediately, rather than letting them grow into a more significant problem.

It pays to be proactive. Still, you can't be expected to know every square inch of your home. In addition to these general tips, it pays to have regular mold inspections, both for your peace of mind and to be able to detect issues before they become major problems.

Where Does Mold Grow?

First, it's important to know where to look. Mold tends to prefer cold, dark, and moist spaces. You probably won't find it in your living room, but your attic and crawlspace are much more likely hiding spots.

Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

And that's not all. You might also find it in doorways, windows, heating, and air conditioning systems. It enters your home either through the air or by being attached to other moldy items like old shoes or newspapers. Once it's there, it's difficult to get rid of.

Signs of Mold

The health risks of mold make looking for early signs that it's growing into your home absolutely crucial. If you see even subtle signs, it might be time to call for professional help to take care of the remediation. Some of these signs include:

Irritated lungs and breathing, similar to allergy symptoms.

A musty smell in the home or areas of the house.

Visible mold, both black and with potentially colored spots.

Water leaks, past flooding, or persistent condensation.

Rust and warping of materials due to humidity.

Most of these don't necessarily point directly to mold growth. They just point towards an environment that encourages this growth. That's why simply looking for them doesn't tend to be enough. A more comprehensive inspection is vital to making sure you know about any potential problems.

Can Mold Harm Humans?

The problems with mold are much more than just an inconvenience. Studies have repeatedly shown the many health risks that spores can bring with them. In fact, mold has been linked to anything from chronic coughs to allergic reactions, skin rashes, red eyes, and more. In some cases, it can get worse.

The reason mold removal services tend to be so important is what mold does to the health of some of the most vulnerable people around us. Most are particularly dangerous for those of us with autoimmune disorders, chronic lung disease, strong allergies, or asthma. And of course, it's worse for infants, children, and the elderly, whose immune systems might not be able to fight against it.

The lesson is clear: you don't want and probably can't afford to have mold in your home. Unfortunately, due to its favorite locations, it could also be difficult to find at times. A thorough inspection can help you find it, but looking out for early growth signs is also important.

Mold Prevention Tips

Ideally, you never let it get to a point where removal becomes a necessity. In the interest of your health and your home's value, you want to make sure that you can prevent rather than remediate the mold. A few tips can help you achieve that goal:

Keep the humidity in your home low, preferably under 40%.

Regularly check your home, particularly the potential problem spots mentioned above, for growth and take care of it early when needed.

Don't let wet areas stay wet. Dry them to make sure they don't become a hospitable environment.

During renovations, invest in mold-resistant drywall and sheetrock to create a less preferable environment.

Regularly clean your roof gutters to avoid any potential leaks or water entering the home in hidden spots.

Clean mold problems immediately, rather than letting them grow into a more significant problem.

It pays to be proactive. Still, you can't be expected to know every square inch of your home. In addition to these general tips, it pays to have regular mold inspections, both for your peace of mind and to be able to detect issues before they become major problems.

Where Does Mold Grow?

First, it's important to know where to look. Mold tends to prefer cold, dark, and moist spaces. You probably won't find it in your living room, but your attic and crawlspace are much more likely hiding spots.

Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

And that's not all. You might also find it in doorways, windows, heating and air conditioning systems. It enters your home either through the air or by being attached to other moldy items like old shoes or newspapers. Once it's there, it's difficult to get rid of.

Signs of Mold

The health risks of mold make looking for early signs that it's growing into your home absolutely crucial. If you see even subtle signs, it might be time to call for professional help to take care of the remediation. Some of these signs include:

Irritated lungs and breathing, similar to allergy symptoms.

A musty smell in the home or areas of the house.

Visible mold, both black and with potentially colored spots.

Water leaks, past flooding, or persistent condensation.

Rust and warping of materials due to humidity.

Most of these don't necessarily point directly to mold growth. They just point towards an environment that encourages this growth. That's why simply looking for them doesn't tend to be enough. A more comprehensive inspection is vital to making sure you know about any potential problems.

Can Mold Harm Humans?

The problems with mold are much more than just an inconvenience. Studies have repeatedly shown the many health risks that the spores can bring with them. In fact, mold has been linked to anything from chronic coughs to allergic reactions, skin rashes, red eyes, and more. In some cases, it can get worse.

The reason mold removal services tend to be so important is what mold does to the health of some of the most vulnerable people around us. Most are particularly dangerous for those of us with autoimmune disorders, chronic lung disease, strong allergies, or asthma. And of course, it's worse for infants, children, and the elderly, whose immune systems might not be able to fight against it.

The lesson is clear: you don't want and probably can't afford to have mold in your home. Unfortunately, due to its favorite locations, it could also be difficult to find at times. A thorough inspection can help you find it, but looking out for early growth signs is also important.

Mold Prevention Tips

Ideally, you never let it get to a point where removal becomes a necessity. In the interest of your health and your home's value, you want to make sure that you can prevent rather than remediate the mold. A few tips can help you achieve that goal:

Keep the humidity in your home low, preferably under 40%.

Regularly check your home, particularly the potential problem spots mentioned above, for growth and take care of it early when needed.

Don't let wet areas stay wet. Dry them to make sure they don't become a hospitable environment.

During renovations, invest in mold-resistant drywall and sheetrock to create a less preferable environment.

Regularly clean your roof gutters to avoid any potential leaks or water entering the home in hidden spots.

Clean mold problems immediately, rather than letting it grow into a more significant problem.

It pays to be proactive. Still, you can't be expected to know every square inch of your home. In addition to these general tips, it pays to have regular mold inspections, both for your peace of mind and to be able to detect issues before they become major problems.

Where Does Mold Grow?

First, it's important to know where to look. Mold tends to prefer cold, dark, and moist spaces. You probably won't find it in your living room, but your attic and crawlspace are much more likely hiding spots.

Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

And that's not all. You might also find it in doorways, windows, heating, and air conditioning systems. It enters your home either through the air or by being attached to other moldy items like old shoes or newspapers. Once it's there, it's difficult to get rid of.

Signs of Mold

The health risks of mold make looking for early signs that it's growing into your home absolutely crucial. If you see even subtle signs, it might be time to call for professional help to take care of the remediation. Some of these signs include:

Irritated lungs and breathing, similar to allergy symptoms.

A musty smell in the home or areas of the house.

Visible mold, both black and with potentially colored spots.

Water leaks, past flooding, or persistent condensation.

Rust and warping of materials due to humidity.

Most of these don't necessarily point directly to mold growth. They just point towards an environment that encourages this growth. That's why simply looking for them doesn't tend to be enough. A more comprehensive inspection is vital to making sure you know about any potential problems.

Can Mold Harm Humans?

The problems with mold are much more than just an inconvenience. Studies have repeatedly shown the many health risks that spores can bring with them. In fact, mold has been linked to anything from chronic coughs to allergic reactions, skin rashes, red eyes, and more. In some cases, it can get worse.

The reason mold removal services tend to be so important is what mold does to the health of some of the most vulnerable people around us. Most are particularly dangerous for those of us with autoimmune disorders, chronic lung disease, strong allergies, or asthma. And of course, it's worse for infants, children, and the elderly, whose immune systems might not be able to fight against it.

The lesson is clear: you don't want and probably can't afford to have mold in your home. Unfortunately, due to its favorite locations, it could also be difficult to find at times. A thorough inspection can help you find it, but looking out for early growth signs is also important.

Mold Prevention Tips

Ideally, you never let it get to a point where removal becomes a necessity. In the interest of your health and your home's value, you want to make sure that you can prevent rather than remediate the mold. A few tips can help you achieve that goal:

Keep the humidity in your home low, preferably under 40%.

Regularly check your home, particularly the potential problem spots mentioned above, for growth and take care of it early when needed.

Don't let wet areas stay wet. Dry them to make sure they don't become a hospitable environment.

During renovations, invest in mold-resistant drywall and sheetrock to create a less preferable environment.

Regularly clean your roof gutters to avoid any potential leaks or water entering the home in hidden spots.

Clean mold problems immediately, rather than letting them grow into a more significant problem.

It pays to be proactive. Still, you can't be expected to know every square inch of your home. In addition to these general tips, it pays to have regular mold inspections, both for your peace of mind and to be able to detect issues before they become major problems.

Where Does Mold Grow?

First, it's important to know where to look. Mold tends to prefer cold, dark, and moist spaces. You probably won't find it in your living room, but your attic and crawlspace are much more likely hiding spots.

Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

And that's not all. You might also find it in doorways, windows, heating, and air conditioning systems. It enters your home either through the air or by being attached to other moldy items like old shoes or newspapers. Once it's there, it's difficult to get rid of.

Signs of Mold

The health risks of mold make looking for early signs that it's growing into your home absolutely crucial. If you see even subtle signs, it might be time to call for professional help to take care of the remediation. Some of these signs include:

Irritated lungs and breathing, similar to allergy symptoms.

A musty smell in the home or areas of the house.

Visible mold, both black and with potentially colored spots.

Water leaks, past flooding, or persistent condensation.

Rust and warping of materials due to humidity.

Most of these don't necessarily point directly to mold growth. They just point towards an environment that encourages this growth. That's why simply looking for them doesn't tend to be enough. A more comprehensive inspection is vital to making sure you know about any potential problems.

Can Mold Harm Humans?

The problems with mold are much more than just an inconvenience. Studies have repeatedly shown the many health risks that spores can bring with them. In fact, mold has been linked to anything from chronic coughs to allergic reactions, skin rashes, red eyes, and more. In some cases, it can get worse.

The reason mold removal services tend to be so important is what mold does to the health of some of the most vulnerable people around us. Most are particularly dangerous for those of us with autoimmune disorders, chronic lung disease, strong allergies, or asthma. And of course, it's worse for infants, children, and the elderly, whose immune systems might not be able to fight against it.

The lesson is clear: you don't want and probably can't afford to have mold in your home. Unfortunately, due to its favorite locations, it could also be difficult to find at times. A thorough inspection can help you find it, but looking out for early growth signs is also important.

Mold Prevention Tips

Ideally, you never let it get to a point where removal becomes a necessity. In the interest of your health and your home's value, you want to make sure that you can prevent rather than remediate the mold. A few tips can help you achieve that goal:

Keep the humidity in your home low, preferably under 40%.

Regularly check your home, particularly the potential problem spots mentioned above, for growth and take care of it early when needed.

Don't let wet areas stay wet. Dry them to make sure they don't become a hospitable environment.

During renovations, invest in mold-resistant drywall and sheetrock to create a less preferable environment.

Regularly clean your roof gutters to avoid any potential leaks or water entering the home in hidden spots.

Clean mold problems immediately, rather than letting them grow into a more significant problem.

It pays to be proactive. Still, you can't be expected to know every square inch of your home. In addition to these general tips, it pays to have regular mold inspections, both for your peace of mind and to be able to detect issues before they become major problems.

  The homeowner explained he had previously had bats in his attic and had them removed but still had bat guano on top of his blown-in cellulose.  He plans on selling his home in the near future and wanted to have the attic insulation that contained the bat guano removed and replaced with clean insulation. Bat guano was spread throughout the top layer of his insulation. Bats in the attic had been previously removed by pest control. The homeowners chose to have the problem fixed because the bat guano in his attic was unhealthy and didn't want that to be a concern in the near future when selling his home. The homeowner's biggest concern was that having bat guano in his attic would cause issues with the potential buyers.

  The homeowner choose our company because we were able to vacuum out the top layer of his insulation and replaced it with the same insulation that he has existing on the attic floor. Our solution was to use an insulation vacuum and remove the top 2" layer of cellulose insulation and replace it with a new fresh layer of cellulose insulation. We faced no challenges during the insulation process because it was just a simple removal of the layer and replacing it with new insulation. We placed New Stabilized TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has a clean healthy bat guano free attic.

  The homeowner was going to be putting her home up for sale and mold was found in both her upper and lower attic spaces. The upper attic had signs of high humidity in the attic and had lots of mold growth on the sheathing, trussed, and insulation. The roof deck around the eaves was all frozen and condensation on the roofing nails was dripping onto the insulation. The lower attic also had mold growth on the sheathing and trusses but at a much less quantity. The upper-level attic mold growth problem was caused by multiple penetrations in the attic floor allowing warm/cool conditioned air to escape into the attic. Baffles were also not present in the attic space and insulation was covering the soffits not allowing proper ventilation from the soffits to the ridge vent. The attic ceiling insulation was scattered throughout the attic and did not have a consistent R-value. The lower attic had roughly 20% of the soffit blocked by the Fiberglass batt insulation and no baffles had been previously installed. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because she wanted to put her home up for sale but was aware that she would not be able to pass a home inspection with the mold that was growing in the attics. We had a lengthy conversation about why the problems were caused and how we would be able to correct the problems. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that her attics were going to cause a problem with her home sale.

  The homeowner chose our company because after our inspection process we sat down with the homeowner and explained everything that was causing the problems within the attic spaces. We used photos and diagrams to help make everything make sense in our process and what we will correct the problems within the attic spaces. We used photos and diagrams to help explain our process and what we will be doing to correct the problem. Our solution was to remove all the blown-in fiberglass insulation and the Fiberglass batt insulation from the upper-level attic floor, cleared the soffits of the insulation that was blocking the airflow, remediated the mold in the attic, installed baffles to allow proper intake ventilation from the soffits, air sealed the attic floor penetrations, and then insulated the attic floor with Cellulose to R49. The lower level attic we pulled the fiberglass batt insulation away from the soffits, remediated the mold in the attic, and then installed baffles to allow proper intake ventilation from the soffits. We did face one challenge during the installation process of the upper-level attic space. The attic was around 4' tall from the ceiling joist to the peak which made it very difficult to move around and reach the insulation that was packed into the soffits once you got closer to the eave. We used multiple products to achieve our end result. We used MoldX2 products, Durovent Baffles, Zypfoam, and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has healthy attics that are breathing properly and can now put her home up for sale without the worry of not being able to sell her home due to mold condensation. The homeowner was very pleased with the job TCI Remediation had done and would recommend it to family and friends.

  The homeowner explained that he had remodeled his bathroom and noticed when he went to install new lights into the ceiling, that the roof sheathing was covered in mold growth and the roof decking was frozen. The roof deck was frozen at the time of inspection in the winter and water droplets were on a majority of the roofing nails. Mold growth was present on the roof sheathing and the trusses within the attic. The problems were caused by lack of intake ventilation from the soffits because they were covered with insulation and the attic floor had not been air sealed. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he was planning on staying in the home forever and wanted to make sure that the home living space was healthy and that no further damage would happen to his roof deck. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that mold growth was in his home and he did not want his family living in the home with a potential health concern.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were referred to him by a previous customer of ours who was also his friend. We had a detailed explanation during the inspection with the homeowner that built trust that we would be the right company to fix his problems within the attic and also provide him with an opportunity to save money on his utility bills. Our solution was to remove all the insulation from the attic floor, remove the insulation that was blocking the soffits, install baffles into the soffits to insure proper airflow, remediate the mold in the attic, air seal all the penetrations on the attic floor (Ex. top plates, wire penetrations) cover the can light with a rockwool can light cover, air seal and insulate the scuttle cover, and reinsulate the attic floor with cellulose insulation to R60. During the installation process we did face the challenge of a low pitch roof which made moving around the attic a bit difficult especially when moving the insulation in the eave. We used a combination of products to achieve our end results. We used Moldx2 products, Durovent Baffles, Silverglo foam board and weather stripping, Zypfoam, Titeshell can light covers and TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has a clean healthy attic that has been properly air sealed and insulated to the maximum recommended insulation R-value for energy efficiency in Zone 5 of Michigan.  

  The homeowner stated that he had cellulose insulation installed years ago but didn't think there had been enough insulation installed because de is still experiencing high energy bills and some of the rooms in his home were more uncomfortable than others. The front office of his home was uncomfortable and always colder in the winter and warmer in the summer than the rest of the home. The problem was caused by not having enough insulation installed on the attic floor for the recommended amount of insulation for Michigan Zone 5. He has inconsistent levels of insulation on his attic floor ranging between R19-R30 blown in cellulose insulation but should have the recommended amount between R49 and R60. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because his office was always uncomfortable. and could never spend a long period of time in it. He also wanted to lower his energy bills because his home is a large home and the cost to heat/cool the home was quite high. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that his office was too uncomfortable to be in because the temperature would fluctuate so much which would cause his HVAC to come on constantly to compensate for the difference.

  The homeowner chose our company because he had other quotes for insulation done by other companies and we were competitive in our price but he was astonished at our attention to detail and the thorough inspection we did compared to the other companies. None of them actually went through the entire attic and one company he got a quote from didn't even look in his attic just measured his square footage from below. Our solution was to blow more cellulose insulation on top of his existing insulation to get his finished R value to R60 throughout the entire attic floor. We did face a couple challenges during the installation process. The first challenge was that we got about half of the attic insulation installed when the techs came across a bat in the attic and to exit the attic till the customer was able to have a bat removal company come out and let us know it was safe to return. The other challenge was that the attic was built very architecturally complex with multiple levels to climb to in order to access each location. We used SilverGlo, weather stripping and TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has the highest recommended insulation R-value for energy efficiency and comfort in our Zone 5 of Michigan. His office is now more comfortable and the HVAC is not coming on as often which is saving the homeowner money on his heating and cooling bill. Our customer was very pleased to use his office for many hours at a time with being frozen out.

  The homeowner stated that he had cellulose insulation installed years ago but didn't think there had been enough insulation installed because he is still experiencing high energy bills and some of the rooms in his home were more comfortable than others. The front office of his home was uncomfortable and always colder in the winter and warmer in the summer than the rest of the home. The problem was caused by not having enough insulation installed on the attic floor for the recommended amount of insulation for Michigan R Zone 5. He had inconsistent levels of insulation on his attic floor ranging between R19-R30 blown-in cellulose insulation but should have the recommended amount between R49 to R60. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because his office was always uncomfortable and could never spend a long period of time in it. He also wanted to lower his energy bills because his home is a large home and the cost to heat/cool the home was quite high. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that his office was too uncomfortable to be in because the temperature would fluctuate so much which would cause his HVAC to come on constantly to compensate for the difference. 

  The homeowner chose our company because he had other quotes for insulation done by other companies and we were competitive in our price but he was astonished at our attention to detail and the thorough inspection we did in comparison to the other companies. None of them actually went through the entire attic and one company he got a quote from didn't even look in his attic just measured his square footage from below. Our solution was to blow more cellulose insulation on top of his existing insulation to get his finished R-value to R60 throughout the entire attic floor. We did face a couple of challenges during the installation process. The first challenge was that we got about half of the attic insulation installed when the techs came across a bat in the attic and had to exit the attic till the customer was able to have a bat removal company come out and let us know it was safe to return. The other challenge was that the attic was built very architecturally complex with multiple levels to climb to in order to access each location. We used SilverGlo, Weather stripping, and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has the highest recommended insulation R-value for energy efficiency and comfort in our Zone 5 of Michigan. His office is now more comfortable and the HVAC is not coming on as often which is saving his money on his heating and cooling bill.

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic

Best methods for improving attic efficiency

• Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.
• Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.
• Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic

Best methods for improving attic efficiency

• Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.
• Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.
• Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic

Best methods for improving attic efficiency

• Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.
• Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.
• Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic

Best methods for improving attic efficiency

• Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.
• Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.
• Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic

Best methods for improving attic efficiency

• Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.
• Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.
• Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic

Best methods for improving attic efficiency

Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.

Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.

Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic

Best methods for improving attic efficiency

• Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.

• Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.

• Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

  Our homeowner was experiencing some major heat loss in his attic in the winter months. He would normally go through anywhere between 12-14 cords of wood in the winter. The home was built in the late 1800's and had barely any insulation at all in the attic. The entire home was cold during the winter. The homeowner uses a wood stove and plug in heaters to to keep his house warm in the winter. A lack of insulation in the house was the main problem in his home. I was the only energy specialist who made it into each part of the attic. I thoroughly measured and took pictures of all the issues that were in the attic. Other's just poked their heads up and gave measurements based off the rooms below. Our homeowners biggest concern was his home holding heat in and he also had bat guano that needed cleaned up also.  The homeowner went with TCI because I thoroughly explained everything that we were going to do for this attic. This was not going to be an easy job. We were the only company that went into all three parts of the attic and took great pictures and showed him what it was going to look like. The solution for this home was to clean his attic down to the drywall, vacuum and scoop out all the bat guano, treat all the substrate with a disinfectant to kill the bacteria. We then air sealed all the top plates, wire penetrations and pipe penetrations. We even fixed major holes that surrounded the masonry chimney. This was crucial in order to stop hot air from escaping the living areas. Once everything was disinfected and sealed we proceeded to install cellulose insulation to an R value of 60. The biggest challenge that we faced was how tight the access holes were to get from one attic space to the other. Also there was so much bat guano that the crew had to basically hand shovel everything into the garbage bags and carry throughout the home and dispose into the dumpster in the driveway. TCI used MoldX2 Botanical to disinfect all surfaces. We used expanding foam to seal up all the top plates and wire penetrations. From there we used Rock Wool EZ Wrap, metal flashing and fire caulk to provide sealing and insulation around the masonry chimneys. Afterwards we topped off the attic with TruSoft Cellulose Insulation.

  The homeowner explained that they have been having problems with ice dams in one of the bedrooms of the home and that all of the bedrooms were cold during the winter months and hot during the summer. Some of the symptoms that were associated with the problems the homeowner pointed out were large amounts of ice building up on the gutter in one corner of the house. The drywall ceiling in the bedroom adjacent to the ice dams outside, was wet in the corner from water getting under the shingles and dripping down to the ceiling below. The problem was caused by a lack of insulation in the eave of the corner of the attic causing conditioned warm air to radiate into the attic and melt the snow on the roof. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because she did not want any more water damage to the ceiling and she also wanted to upgrade the insulation in the attic to make the other bedrooms in the home more comfortable year-round. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that she was worried the ice dam was only going to get worse and cause even more damage to the ceiling and she would have a potential mold problem.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to explain to her while doing our tour for 2 and using our Flir Camera why she was having issues with the ice dams and she was able to see how with her own eyes, that not having enough insulation in the eaves was causing warm air to radiate into the attic and melt the snow on the roof. Our solution was to remove all of the loose fiberglass insulation that she had on her attic floor. Air seal all of the penetrations in the attic floor (top plate, bond plates, pipe penetrations ect.). Air  seal and insulate her hatch cover properly. Lastly, insulate the attic floor with Cellulose insulation to an R49 R-Value. One of the challenges that we faced during the installation process was the insulation hose clogged multiple times because of a crack in one of the brass fittings on our collar. We used a combination of products to achieve our end results. We used 1" foamboard for our insulation collar around the hatch, DuroVent venting baffles, SilverGlo, Weather-stripping, ZypFoam and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has energy star rated attic insulation and is no longer experiencing cold rooms. She is no longer getting ice dams on the gutter in the corner of her house.

  The homeowner's son had actually been the one to go into the attic to look for a problem because water was coming through the bath fan vent inside of the bathroom and noticed a lot of discoloration on the roof sheathing. The homeowner went into the attic and noticed that the ducting for the two bath fans were improperly installed and hanging over a truss support causing condensation to get trapped in the vent. Mold growth was present on the sheathing and trusses and the attic air was stagnant. Moisture was dripping into the bathroom from the attic fan. The problems in the attic were caused by a lack of ventilation coming from the soffit vents because the fiberglass batt insulation had been installed all the way to the roof deck not allowing air flow to come through the soffit vents. As for the water dripping into the bathroom through the bath fan, that problem was caused by the ducting in the attic being installed over a support on the truss allowing moisture to backflow back down the ducting. When taking off the ducting we were able to pour the water into a 5 gallon bucket and the ducting contained 3 1/2 gallons of water within. Th homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he is a builder and knew that over time the mold in his attic would cause structural damage to his roof and that it would be costly if he didn't take action now. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that his roof would become structurally compromised if the mold on the sheathing continued to grow and eat away at the sheathing.

  The homeowner chose our company over two other companies because we identified issues in his attic that none of the other companies noticed or provided a solution for. We also provided a solution to add a better thermal boundary over his living room as he mentioned it was always uncomfortable. Our solution was to remediate the mold in his attic and correct the ventilation within the attic by providing baffles into the soffits to make sure that they were allowing adequate ventilation. We then would re-route the bath fan ducts and use insulated ducts connecting them to the gable wall vents and then air sealing around the vents to prevent the backflow of humid air from entering back into the attic. We would then cover two can lights with rockwool can light covers as they were not IC rated posing a potential fire hazard. We would air seal and insulate the attic hatch cover and then install cellulose insulation over the existing fiberglass batt insulation over the living room to achieve R49. The only challenge we faced during the installation process was installing the can light covers over the recessed lighting on the vaulted ceiling as they were half way down the vault where the space was limited. We used MoldX2 products, DuroVent baffles, ZypFoam, Weather-stripping, SilveGlo, TiteShell Recessed light fixture cover, Master Flow ducting and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a healthy, mold free attic and his living room is now providing a more retainable temperature and is comfortable to be in.

  The homeowner explained that he had his roof shingles replaced and some of the sheathing needed to be replaced as well. During the roofing project the roofing company noticed discoloration/mold on the underside of the sheathing inside the attic. The symptoms of the problem were high humidity inside the attic, roofing nails had condensation on the tips, Mold growth was present all throughout the attic. The problem was caused a lack of ventilation in the attic, the exhaust ventilation was lacking causing high temperatures and high humidity in the attic to cause condensation on the roof deck. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because they just spent a lot of money on a new roof and they wanted to make sure that the money they spent towards the roof was spent wisely and correcting all the problems that caused the original roof to expire quicker than it should have. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was the health aspect. They were very concerned with the mold in their home causing health issues with the family. 

  The homeowner chose our company because we were referred to them by the roofing company who replaced their roof and corrected the ventilation issues, who also live in their neighborhood. Our solution was to remove all the insulation from the attic floor, HEPA vacuum all of the sheathing and trusses inside the attic, treat the sheathing and trusses with a mold/mildew stain remover inside the attic, treat the sheathing and trusses with a mold/mildew stain remover and an anti-microbial spray. We would then air seal all of the attic floor penetrations, install baffles into the soffit vents. Cover the recessed can lights with rockwool covers, replace a section of 7" duct for the HVAC supply duct in the attic that had been crushed. Air seal and insulate the hatch cover and then insulate the attic floor with Cellulose insulation to R60 R-Value. The only challenge we faced during the installation process was that the stain remover did not remove all of the stains on the first treatment so the following day a second treatment had to be applied. We used multiple products in order to achieve our solution. We used Mold X2 products, 4' x 22" and 6" x 22" DuroVent baffling 7"  Master Flow insulated flex duct, weather-stripping, ZypFoam, adhesive, 4" SilverGlo, TiteShell recessed light fixture covers and TruSoft Celluose. The homeowner now has a healthy, clean attic that is free of mold. The attic floor has also been insulated to an energy star rated R60 R-value.

  The homeowner explained that he had a gas heater installed in the garage to prevent the exposed pipes from freezing within the garage. His problems was that the garage attic floor has no insulation on it causing all of the heat in his garage that he's paying for to radiate towards the attic and leave very quickly causing the heater to run constantly to make up for the heat continually being lost. The symptoms of the problem were high energy gas bills. The problem was caused by having no insulation on the attic floor while trying to retain the heat in the garage to keep the pipes from freezing. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because the heater he had installed in his garage to prevent the pipes from freezing would just run constantly and his garage would not retain the heat he was paying for. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that he was spending more money than necessary to heat his garage since all the heat would be lost to the attic.

  The homeowner chose our company because we are a locally owned company and he found us in the local Marketeer magazine giving him a $200 coupon on insulation installation. Our solution was to air seal all the penetrations on the attic floor, Install baffles into the soffits to ensure proper unrestricted airflow, air seal and insulate the attic floor to an R49 R-value. The only challenge that we faced during the installation process was the slope of the driveway was too steep for out insulation truck to make it up so we had to park our truck at the bottom and bring all the supplies up to the garage. We used TruSoft Venting Baffles, Weather-stripping, Adhesive, 4" SilverGlo, Owens Corning Foam Board, ZypFoam, TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has R49 R-Value Energy Star rated insulated garage attic floor that will now retain the heat in the garage much longer causing his energy consumption and bills to go down.

  The homeowner has been experiencing issues with allergies in the home and everything in the home was extremely clean until they looked up in their attic and noticed a lot of white and black fungal growth all over the attic sheathing and trusses. Mold growth was present all over the roof sheathing and trusses and mold was also present on the insulation. The attic was very humid with little to no air flow. The soffit vents had been completely blocked with blown in fiberglass insulation preventing any air intake into the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because she has people in her family who are very allergic to mold and she did not want to have them over and staying upstairs knowing that she had a very bad mold problem above them. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that the mold problem within her attic was so extensive that she could smell the VOC's in the home and she did not want to have anyone in the house while her attic posed a health risk.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to identify the root cause for the mold growth in the attic and we were the only remediation company that she had out that would tackle removing the insulation as well and reinstall new insulation. Our solution was to vacuum out all the blown in fiberglass insulation from the attic floor and soffits and then remove the fiberglass batt insulation from the attic floor. We then remediate the mold from the attic  sheathing and trusses and made sure to clear the soffit vents and install baffles to allow airflow into the attic. Our next solution was to air seal the attic floor to prevent warm air from rising into the attic during the winter months to prevent high humidity and then install fresh clean cellulose insulation to R60. We did not face any challenges during the installation process as everything went smoothly as planned. We used MoldX2 products for cleaning the mold on the roof sheathing and trusses, Master flow Insulated ducting, SilverGlo, Weather-stripping, ZypFoam and TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has a healthy clean attic and the home no longer contains a musty smell upstairs. The homeowner now has an energy star rated home and is experiencing a more comfortable upstairs year round while saving more money on their bills then the project.

  The homeowner had just bought the home and during the home inspection mold was found all over the roof inside of the attic. The homeowner also explained that the temperature upstairs was not consistent with the temperature on the main floor. Mold was found all over the roof sheathing, trusses and insulation. The upstairs was around 10 degrees cooler than the downstairs during our inspection in the winter. The problem was caused by high humidity in the attic being caused by lack of ventilation coming from the soffits as they were blocked with insulation. The insulation on the attic floor was also lacking causing condensation to build up on the roof deck from warmer air coming in contact with the cool roof. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he knew he had to get this taken care of before the problem got worse and it would save him money in the long run with not spending so much money on his utility bills. The homeowners biggest concern with the problem was that his family was living under a mold infestation that was a large health concern.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were knowledgeable about our solution to correct the problems that were going on that he was concerned about and that he thought we were reasonably priced for the work that we proposed. Our solution was to remediate the mold in the attic and remove all of the insulation that was in the attic. Once the mold was removed and the attic was restored to a clean and healthy space we would air seal the attic floor with cellulose to an R60 value. We faced two challenges during the insulation process. The first was the slope of the driveway made it difficult for our insulation truck to get up the hill without causing damage to the driveway and the step on the back of our insulation truck. We had to go over the grass about 2' in order to achieve the angle required to clear the back step from hitting his driveway. The second challenge was the amount of water we want through. We had a small crack in one of the brass fittings on our water collar that was leaking a lot of water and we had to refill our tank. We used MoldX2 products for the remediation, TruSoft venting baffles, SilverGlo, ZypFoam, Weather-stripping, Rockwool metal chimney wrap and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a healthy clean attic and Energy Star rated attic insulation. After performing the job the homeowner had mentioned that the upstairs was noticeably warmer in just a few hours after completing the job.

  The homeowner had her attic remediated three years ago by a different company and she has mold re-growing on her sheathing. She explained that the company told her that they corrected the ventilation and yet they only installed half the amount of baffles that they were needed, leaving the other soffit vents blocked with insulation. Her other concern was that her bathroom fan exhaust vents on the gable wall were blocked by bird nests and not allowing the humid air from the bathrooms to vent out of the attic properly. Mold growth was present on the roof sheathing and trusses within the attic. The problem was caused by lack of intake ventilation coming from  the soffit vents that had still been blocked by insulation and baffles not being installed. A lack of insulation was also allowing the heat from the conditioned space below to radiate into the attic and cause condensation to form on the roof deck. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because they had mold remediation done previously in the attic that the problem had been corrected. They wanted a solution that would be permanent and would not be a recurring problem that they would have to pay every few years to be dealt with. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that it not corrected the first time by the company that had claimed that they had fixed the cause of the problem even though she went into the attic herself and discovered that not to be true after seeing that her soffit vents were still blocked and the baffles that they had installed were not even stapled to the sheathing.

  The homeowner chose our company because she got into the attic with us and we were able to show her the ventilation problems that the previous remediation company did not correct and she understood how correcting these problems would correct the regrowth of mold in the attic from returning. Our solution was to remove the contaminated/dirty blown in fiberglass and fiberglass batt insulation from the attic floor in order to seal the gaps in the attic floor that were allowing warm air from thee conditioned space below to radiate into the attic (top plate, bond plate, wire and pipe penetrations ect.). We then remediate the mold in the attic space to make sure that the attic would be clean and healthy. We removed the baffles that were previously installed and installed the correct size baffles for 24" on center rafters to make sure the soffits were breathing properly. We air sealed and insulated the attic hatch cover and installed can light covers over the recessed lighting. We removed the bird nests that were blocking the air path inside the gable wall vents for the bathroom fan exhausts and installed insulated ducking and air sealed around the gap to prevent backdraft airflow from venting back into the attic. Lastly we insulated the attic floor with Cellulose to R60. The only challenge that we faced during the installation process was one portion inside the attic was limited in height between the roof deck and attic floor making it difficult to access. We used MoldX2 products, Masterflow Insulated Ducting, SilverGlo, Weather stripping, ZypFoam, DuroVent Baffles, Titeshell Recessed light fixture cover, TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has a more comfortable upstairs year around that retains the temperature that the thermostat is set to. She also has a mold free clean and healthy attic that is breathing properly.

  The Homeowner noticed bathroom fans that were venting into the attic space and a considerable amount of mold throughout the attic and how dirty the attic insulation was.  The attic had high humidity, mold staining across the roof deck and dirty insulation on the attic floor that was covered with insects.  The problems in the attic were caused by bathroom fan vents being vented into the attic causing humid air to condensate on the roof deck.  Soffits were being blocked with previously installed blown in fiberglass insulation not allowing proper ventilation to flow from the soffits to the ridge.  The attic floor also contained many penetrations that were not air sealed to prevent conditioned air from the home to enter into the attic space.  The Homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because we did a thorough inspection throughout the attic and were able to show why these problems existed and how we could fix them properly.   The biggest concerns the Homeowners had with the problems in the attic were the health aspects of moving into a new home that contained mold/moisture issues.

  TCI Remediation was chosen by the homeowner because we were able to show her that doing nothing or simply just cleaning the mold was not going to solve the problem at any cost.  We were thorough with what needed to be done and why.  Our solution to the problem was to remove the mold from the roof deck and trusses and remove all the contaminated blown in fiberglass from the attic floor, and to clear the insulation at the eaves blocking the ventilation from the soffits. We then air sealed all wire penetrations, top plates and bottom plates and covered the attic floor with stabilized cellulose insulation up to R-60.  We also installed insulated ducting to the bath fans and directed them out the attic space through gable vents.  we used a combination combination of products, RMR-86 to remove the mold and mildew stains. RMR-141 was used as a fungicide and disinfectant.  TruSoft Stabilized Cellulose Insulation was used to insulate and ZypFoam was used to air seal the attic floor. SilverGlo Polstyrene radiant barrier faced foam board was used to cover the hatch cover and weather stripping under the hatch cover was installed to create an airtight hatch. The homeowner now has a mold free attic space that is being properly ventilated and a more energy efficient attic with R-60 insulation and an air sealed attic floor.

  The homeowner had just moved in and had a home inspection done before he purchased the home and Mold was found in the attic during the inspection. The home inspection also stated that the insulation should be upgraded as the attic floor contained only R19 fiberglass batt insulation and 4" of blown fiberglass insulation for an R value of only R30. The symptoms of the problem were dark stains on the trusses and roof sheathing inside the attic. The upstairs temperature was noticeably warmer than the main floor. When using a thermal camera, the attic floor was 8-10 degrees warmer than the inside temperature settings of the home and the whole house attic fan louver temperature was right around 100 degrees. The problems were caused by a lack of ventilation through the soffit vents as they had been completely blocked by the insulation that had been insulated without baffles to make sure they were still breathing properly. The upstairs temperature was warmer than the main floor level because the attic floor lacked insulation to effectively retain the temperature in the home. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he had just moved into the home and could already tell that his upstairs was uncomfortably warmer than the rest of the home. He also explained that he did not want to have his family members living under the roof knowing that he had a very bad mold problem that could cause health issues. The homeowner's biggest concern was that it would cost even more money down the road when the roof becomes structurally compromised and would need to be replaced before even reaching the expected life expectancy and could potentially leak water to the conditioned space below causing even more damage.

  The homeowner chose our company because we built a solid report with the customer during the inspection and we were able to get him into the attic to let him see with his own eyes where the problems were coming from and how we would be able to solve the issues with our solutions provided. Our solution was to remove all of the dirty/contaminated insulation from the attic floor to start with a clean surface and then remediate the mold in his attic. We would then install baffles into the eaves between the rafters to make sure that airflow was not being restricted coming into the attic through the soffit vents. We then would air seal the penetrations in the attic floor (Top plate, Bond plates, Wire and Pipe penetrations ect.). We would seal the gap around the metal chimney stack with metal flashing and install a rockwool sleeve around the chimney stack for fire safety. The whole house fan would be covered with a whole house fan cover box made out of foam board insulation with a radiant barrier on either side. The gable vents needed to be covered as the attic relies on High and Low ventilation and would cause cross ventilation. The recessed lighting would be covered with rockwool can light covers and air sealed to the attic floor and then lastly we would install cellulose insulation to an R60 value. Some of the challenges that we faced during the installation process was the heat in the attic and the height of the attic was short. We used MoldX2 products, SilverGlo, Weather stripping, Fire Caulk, Metal Flashing, Rock wool chimney sleeve, OSB, ZypFoam, Titeshell Recessed Light Fixture Covers and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a healthy, clean attic and the upstairs temperature is consistent with the temperature on the main floor.

  The homeowner had called us out because he had a home inspection done for a home sale and mold was found in the attic. He had also explained that it was hot upstairs during the summer and cold during the winter months. The symptoms of the problem were his roofing nails were all rusted showing signs of high humidity in the attic. He also had condensation forming on the tips of the nails during the inspection during the winter. The problems were caused by not having enough insulation on the attic floor and the attic floor not being air-sealed to stop the heat from the conditioned home from leaking into the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he wants to sell his home but was not able to do so with the mold that was found in the attic during the home inspection. The homeowner's biggest concerns with the problems in the attic had been remediated properly.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to provide him with a solution that would fix both his poorly insulated attic and be able to remove the mold within his attic so he could put his home up for sale. Our solution was to remove all the old contaminated loose fiberglass insulation from the attic floor and then air seal all the top plates, and wire penetrations. We also wanted to make sure that we covered all of the recessed lighting with TiteShell can light covers and air seal them. We then thoroughly cleaned the attic sheathing and trussed off the mold growth and then reinsulated his attic to a respectable R49. The only real challenge faced during the installation process was the mold was taking longer to get rid of than expected. It took us longer to remove because of how deep the mold had penetrated the roof deck. We used a combination of products to achieve our end result. We used Mold X2, Durovent baffles, TiteShell can light covers, 4" insulated ducting, SilverGlo, and TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has a healthy clean attic and is properly ventilated and insulated to R49. The homeowner can now put his home up for sale and not be concerned about not being able to sell his home due to the growth of mold in his attic. He can also up-sale the listing of his home as it is now energy-efficient.

  The homeowner explained that he noticed his Fireplace Den in the house that is also adjacent to the garage was always cold during the winter months and warm during the summer. He also explained that he would like to make improvements with making his home more energy efficient with current tax breaks. The symptoms of the problem were that the Fireplace Den was 5-10 degrees colder/warmer than the rest of the house depending on the season. The problem was caused by not having the exterior top plates air sealed, previous blown fiberglass was not blown all the way to the eave and the vertical wall inside the garage that was adjacent to the attic of the Fireplace Den was insulated with a loose fill of fiberglass that had settled. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because his office is in the Fireplace Den and he is always uncomfortable staying in there for long periods of time as he would either get cold during the winter or hot during the summer. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem is that he is having knee surgery and will be spending lots of time in the Den working from home and does not want to be uncomfortable while trying to work and needing to get up constantly. He also has a attic above the bedrooms on his top floor that he wanted to improve to an energy star rating with current utility costs.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to show him where and why all the problems he was experiencing existed and how we would be able to fix them that made sense to him. With the tour for two he was able to come to the conclusion that improving the insulation in his attics would not only save him money in the long run but would also make his family more comfortable year round. Our solution for the Fireplace Den attic was to remove the blown fiberglass and the fiberglass batt from the attic floor and remove the loose fiberglass that was installed in front of the vertical wall adjacent to the garage attic. We then air sealed the exterior top plates and filled the attic floor to an R49 R-value to achieve an energy star rating. We then installed a 4" SilverGlo foam board with a radiant barrier on either side that has an R20 R-value across the entire front of the vertical wall. For the upper level attic we removed the fiberglass batt insulation and loose fiberglass insulation, covered and air sealed the drop soffit over the shower and linen closet and then air sealed and insulated the attic floor to an R60 R-value. One of the challenges that we faced was the attic floor above the Fireplace Den was a vaulted ceiling with a steep pitch that made it difficult to get to the eaves. We used a combination of products to achieve our solution. We used ZypFoam, 4" SilverGlo, Rockwool EZ Roll sleeve, Fire Caulk, TruSoft Venting Baffles, Weather-stripping and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a more comfortable living space and his attic floors have now been insulated to an Energy Star Rating R49 above the Fireplace Den and R60 above the bedrooms on the upper level.

  The homeowner had a roof leak at one point and mold growth caused, they were also told by a home health audit that they could use more insulation for energy efficiency. Mold growth was found on top the roof decking and rafters. They also had rooms that were cold below the attic floor. A roof leak was causing added moisture into the attic with not having baffles installed proper ventilation from the soffits to the ridge vent. Attic floor penetrations had also not been air sealed prior to installing the fiberglass batt insulation when the home was built. Nine cans lights were not air sealed on the attic floor allowing airflow to escape into the attic from the conditioned air space below. The homeowner chose to have the problems fixed because they could see how not having proper insulation on the attic floor and not having penetrations on the attic floor air sealed meant they were not only spending money to heat and cool their home but they were losing that air they paid to heat and cool the home to the attic. The homeowner's biggest concern was that they were losing money heating and cooling the home to the attic that they paid for to heat and cool the conditioned space of the home.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to show them that they would be able to save money on energy with a properly insulated attic. We also used thermal imaging to show them the heat loss coming from not having the can lights air sealed and covered with can light covers. Our solution was to remediate the mold that was on the roof decking and rafter, remove the existing batt fiberglass insulation and air sealed all the accessible penetrations, top plates and can lights with polyurethane foam and install R60 Cellulose to the attic floor. We ran into a couple challenges during the installation process. We had difficulties fitting the bags of old insulation through the scuttle because the old insulation made the bags thick with only a few pieces in each bag. We also had difficulty with walking through the attic because the attic did not contain trusses and the rafters were hard to reach making it difficult to walk safely. We used a combination of products to achieve our end result. We used Mold X2 products, Durovent Baffles, ZypFoam, SilverGlo, TiteShell Can Light Covers, Can light flag markers, and Stabilized TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has an energy efficient attic and will be saving money on energy bills while also reducing the changes of ice dams. They also have a healthy mold free attic that will help reduce allergens within the home.

  The Homeowner explained that he had no insulation in his attic and it hasn't been a concern for the 20+ years living there, but has decided to do some renovations to the home in case he decides to sell.  The home was not energy efficient and his rooms under the attic floor did not keep a constant temperature while the HVAC was running.  The problem was caused by not having any insulation on the attic floor.  The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he was getting his home updated in case he decided to sell the home.  He also wanted to save more on his energy consumption/bill.  The homeowners biggest concern with the problem was that he was spending more on energy than he should have.

  The homeowner chose our company because we talked with him at a home show event and he liked that fact that we blew cellulose instead of fiberglass insulation.  Our solution was to air seal his attic floor, blow in R60 cellulose and install an air sealed and insulated hatch cover to increase his energy efficiency.  During the insulation process the attic contained a few personal items that belong to the previous homeowner that we had to remove through the hatch.  We used SilverGlo, ZypFoam, Durovent Baffles and TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has an energy efficient attic and the rooms below the attic floor are warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.    

  The homeowner explained that they have been having problems with ice dams in one of the bedrooms of the home and that all of the bedrooms were cold during the winter months and hot during the summer. Some of the symptoms that were associated with the problems the homeowner pointed out were large amounts of ice building up on the gutter in one corner of the house. The drywall ceiling in the bedroom adjacent to the ice dams outside, was wet in the corner from water getting under the shingles and dripping down to the ceiling below. The problem was caused by a lack of insulation in the eaves of the corner of the attic conditioned warm air to radiate into the attic and melt the snow on the roof. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because she did not want any more water damage to the ceiling and she also wanted to upgrade the insulation in the attic to make the other bedrooms in the home more comfortable year round. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that she was worried the ice dam was only to get worse and cause even more damage to the ceiling and she would have a potential mold problem.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to explain to her while doing our tour for two and using our Flir Camera why she was having issues with the ice dams and she was able to see how with her own eyes, that not having enough insulation in the eaves was causing warm air to radiate into the attic and melt the snow on the roof. Our solution was to remove all of the loose fiberglass insulation that she had on the attic floor. Air seal all of the penetrations in the attic floor (Top Plates, Bond Plates, Pipe and Wire penetrations ect.). Air seal and insulate her hatch cover properly. Lastly, insulate the attic floor with Cellulose insulation to an R49 R-Value. One of the challenges that we were faced during the installation process was the insulation hose clogged multiple times because of a crack in one of the brass fittings on our water collar. We used a combination of products to achieve our end results. We used 1" Foam Board for our insulation collar around the hatch. DuroVent Venting Baffles, SilverGlo, Weather-stripping, ZypFoam and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has energy star rated attic insulation and is no longer experiencing cold rooms. She is now no longer getting ice dams on the gutter in the corner of her house.

  The homeowner explained that she noticed some water staining on her ceiling and had a roofer come out to look for leaks. The roofer didn't find any leaks but did say they found mold growth on a few parts of the roof sheathing inside of the attic. The symptoms of the problem were the roofing nails were rusted in the attic. The location of the mold on the roof sheathing was also frozen at the time of inspection. The problems in the attic were caused by not having a vapor barrier installed below the blown fiberglass insulation and the insulation was below R30. The other problem was caused by a birds nest in the eave that was completely blocking the soffit not allowing airflow to enter the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because she did not want further damage to the attic sheathing and did not want further water damage to the attic ceiling. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that the water was getting on her ceiling and she did not want any further damages to occur nor did she want mold growth in her home.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to locate the root cause of the problem and had a solution to remedy it. We were able to help her save money on her energy bills by being able to properly insulate her attic as well. Our solution was to completely remove the blown-in fiberglass insulation, Remediate the mold within the attic space, clear the soffits of the birds nest to allow proper intake ventilation, air seal all the penetrations on the attic floor, air seal and insulate the leaky can lights and re-insulate the attic floor to an energy efficient R60.The one challenge that we faced during the installation process was that our misting collar to stabilize the insulation was giving us problems with a consistent spray and therefore would clog the hose. We were able to fix the misting collar spray nozzles with spares that we had on hand. We used MoldX2 products to remediate the mold in the attic, TiteShell can light covers, SilverGlo, ZypFoam, Weather-Stripping, DuroVent Baffles and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a clean, healthy attic and is properly insulated for energy efficiency in Zone 5 of Michigan.

  The homeowner explained that he had just replaced the roof decking and shingles the previous year and while up in his attic, he noticed new mold growth on the brand new sheathing that he had just replaced. The symptoms of the problem were high humidity in the attic and mold growth was present on the OSB in the attic. The problem was caused by the soffit vents being blocked with fiberglass batt insulation that he had also installed but had pushed it too far into the eave, cutting off the airflow between the baffles and the roof deck. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he had just spent all the money to replace his roof deck and shingles and now has mold growing inside of his attic, putting his family's health at risk. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem is that he had mold in his attic before he replaced all the OSB and shingles on his home and now the mold is back again with a new roof. His wife was really concerned about the mold and wanted to make sure that the family was healthy and safe.

  The homeowner chose our company because we did an excellent job with our presentation and how our company would fix the issue with mold that had come back even after replacing the entire roof. He also liked the idea of his home becoming Energy Star Rated with upgrading his current R30 fiberglass batt insulation with R60 Cellulose insulation. Our solution was to remove all of the fiberglass batt insulation from the attic floor and then remediate the mold from the roof deck and trusses. Once we had a healthy clean surface we would then air seal all the penetrations in the attic floor (Top Plates, Bond Plates, Wire and Pipe penetrations ect.), and cover the recessed can light over the master bathroom shower. We then air sealed and insulated the hatch cover with 4" R20 Foam Board with a radiant barrier on either side and then blew cellulose on the attic floor to a depth of 17" or an R60 R-value. One of the challenges that we faced during the installation process was the vaulted ceiling over the master bedroom. It was really tight and made it difficult for getting down towards the eave to install the baffles into the soffits. We used a combination of products to achieve our end result. We used ZypFoam, Weather-stripping, Adhesive caulk, TiteShell Recessed Light Fixture Cover, 4' and 6'x 22" DuroVent Rafter Baffles and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner's now have a clean and healthy attic that is breathing properly and they also have Energy Star Rated attic insulation to an R60 R-Value saving them money and making their home more comfortable.   

  The homeowner went up into his attic and noticed mold growth on his roof deck and his attic insulation was extremely dirty. Mold was present all over the deck and the attic had hot/humid air that was not being vented out properly. The soffits were blocked with previously blown in insulation and the attic floor had not been air sealed allowing conditioned air from the home to lead into the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he was concerned about the structural integrity and life of his roof. He also wanted to save more on his heating and cooling bills. The homeowner's biggest concern was that the mold in his attic was unhealthy to have in his home and that it would ruin his life expectancy of his roof.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were very thorough with the inspection and was able to explain to him clearly what needed to be done to resolve the problem. He also noted he just wanted to get everything updated at his home so he wouldn't leave his kids any expenses that needed to be put out to sell the home one day. Our solution was to clean the roof deck and trusses free of mold and install the proper amount of baffles into the soffits. We would then completely remove the Blown in Fiberglass and batt insulation that was on the attic floor and air seal the attic floor. Once the attic floor has been air sealed we would then blow in all new Cellulose to R60. We did experience some challenges with getting the mold removed from the roof deck as it was embedded deep into the wood. Removing the insulation also posed a challenge due to insulation being blown on top of the batt insulation made it more time consuming to switch techniques for removal. We used a combination of products. To remove the mold we used a HEPA vacuums and then treated the attic with RMR-86 and RMR-141. We then installed DuroVent baffles to all bays that had soffits in them. For insulation we used ZypFoam for air sealing the attic floor and then blew in 17 inches of TruSoft Stabilized Cellulose for an R-60 value, 4 inches SilveGlow foam board for insulating the hatch cover to R-20 and weather-stripping to create an airtight seal around the hatch. The homeowner now has a mold free attic and an energy efficient attic floor in Michigan with R-60 insulation, reducing the cost of his heating and cooling bills.

  The homeowner explained that while they were doing some work eliminating a chimney chase in the wall of their bedroom and looking for a location to install wiring in the new wall, they noticed while up in the attic that mold growth was present on the gable walls at the top of the insulation. The symptoms of the problem were black colored mold growth on the gable walls, the gable wall OSB was wet from the bottom plate to the top of the blown insulation.  The problem was caused by the bath fan ducts leaking below the insulation where they were disconnected from couplers at the gable vent. The warm humid air coming from the bath fan exhausts was traveling through the insulation and getting trapped between the OSB on the gable wall and the insulation causing the OSB to become saturated. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because the moisture that was on the gable wall was going to eventually rot the wood and will be a much more extensive fix if it did not get corrected quickly. Along with mold being an indoor allergy, they did not want mold in their home especially with having kids. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that the mold growth in the attic was going to get much worse and would become a health concern for both the occupants and the home.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to identify the cause of the problem and were able to come up with a detailed solution that would not only make sure the mold would be removed but also would benefit them in the long run with saving money on their energy bills while making the upstairs more comfortable year around. Our solution was to remove all of the blown fiberglass and fiberglass batt from the attic floor, remediating the mold that was present on the gable walls and on some of the roof sheathing and rafters. We then air sealed all of the top plates, bond plates and wire/pipe penetrations on the attic floor to stop the conditioned air from the home being sucked up into the attic. We reconnected the bath fan ducts to the wall vent couplers on the gable walls and then sealed the edges with on part foam. We installed all new Baffles throughout the attic and then insulated the attic floor with cellulose to 17" or R60. Some of the challenges that we faced during the installation process were the vaulted ceiling was very difficult to get down and remove the existing fiberglass batt insulation and air seal the top plates due to how close the roof deck was. We also ran into a issue with the generator on the truck leaking gas on the driveway due to the vented gas cap not venting, causing some damage to the asphalt requiring us to contact out an asphalt repair company. We used a combination of products to achieve our solution. We used Mold X2, DuroVent Venting Baffles, 4' SilverGlo (Hatch Insulation), Weather-stripping, Adhesive, ZypFoam, 1/2" Foamboard (Insulation Collar), TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a healthy attic, clean attic that is going to supply comfort and savings for many years.

  The homeowner had noticed dark staining on his roof deck sheathing inside of the attic and his insulation was not properly installed on the attic floor. The homeowner also mentioned that his HVAC would come on after just shutting off, implying that his home was not holding a constant temperature for very long. Mold growth was found on the roof deck sheathing and trusses, also the HVAC system would turn on more than it should. The problem was caused by Fiberglass Batt insulation blocking the soffits and not allowing proper ventilation. The soffits also did not contain baffling. The attic floor also contains 13 can lights that were not covered, causing more penetrations in the attic floor to leak conditioned air into the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because we were very thorough with explaining the problems that existed with the attic and he could see why his problems with mold in the attic along with not being properly insulated would not go away without fixing the problem properly. The homeowner's biggest concern with that he was spending money to heat and/or cool the home and his money was being spent just to go up into the attic. He was also concerned that the mold growth would get worse and cause health problems for his wife and himself and would also cause problems with the structural integrity of his roof.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to put forth a plan that the homeowner was able to agree with as well, which would be a solution to fixing the mold growth in his attic and making his home more comfortable with having his attic floor air sealed and insulated properly for Michigan zone weather. Our solution was to remove the current Fiberglass Batt insulation that was on the attic floor, Remediate the mold that was in the attic, install 13 can light covers and air seal them, install baffles into the eaves to allow proper ventilation from the soffits once the insulation was blown in, air seal all the accessible penetrations in the attic floor, air seal and insulate the scuttle cover and install R60 insulation on the attic floor. Inside the attic there was a cathedral ceiling that possessed a certain amount of difficulty to access as the truss supports were close together. We used a combination of products to achieve our results. We used Mold X2 products, DuroVent Baffles, TiteShell Can Light Covers, ZypFoam, SilverGlo and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a mold free attic and is now able to keep his home warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer without his HVAC coming on so frequently with a properly air sealed and insulated attic. 

  The homeowner explained that she had mold in her attic after an initial home inspection was made for a home sale. The symptoms of the problem were mold growth on the sheathing and trusses in the attic and rusted roofing nails. The problem was caused by the soffits being blocked and not allowing air to pass through the soffits up to the ridge vent. The attic also had between R-6 and R-11 insulation on the attic floor which was not providing an adequate thermal boundary between the conditioned space inside the home and the unconditioned space in the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problems fixed in her attic because she was in the process of trying to sell her home but was faced with rejection from the possible buyers because of the mold that was in the attic. The homeowners biggest concern with the problem was not being able to find someone interested in buying the home while mold was present in the home.

  The homeowner chose our company because of our fast response time for an inspection to our production date. We were able to have a thorough discussion with the homeowner on the best solution for remediating the mold in the attic and preventing it from recurring. Our solution was to remove all the mold that was in the attic and make sure that the soffit vents were breathing properly and had directional airflow up the roof deck to be vented out of the ridge vent. Our next step was to add R-60 cellulose insulation to make sure the attic floor had a proper amount of insulation for the Michigan climate zone. The only challenge we came across was that it had rained on the day we were going to blow in the insulation so we had to cancel production day to another day that was weather permitting. We used a combination of products to get the attic healthy and properly insulated. We used a HEPA vacuum, Mold X2, Mold X2 Botanicals to remove the mold from the sheathing and trusses then installed DuroVent baffles to all of the bays with soffit vents. We then installed 15" of TruSoft Cellulose insulation on top of the existing blown in fiberglass insulation to achieve an R-60 Thermal Boundary. The homeowner now has a mold free attic that will pass a home inspection so she can sell her home and also has an excellent selling feature with her attic now being energy efficient for Michigan's climate zone. Home was put back on the market and sold immediately.

  The homeowner explained that he had remodeled his bathroom and noticed when he went to install new lights into the ceiling, that the roof sheathing was covered in mold growth and the roof decking was frozen. The roof deck was frozen at the time of inspection in the winter and water droplets were on a majority of the roofing nails. Mold growth was present on the roof sheathing and the trusses within the attic. The problem were caused by lack of intake ventilation from the soffits because they were covered with insulation and the attic floor had not been air sealed. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he was planning on staying in the home forever and wanted to make sure that the home living space was healthy and that no further damage would happen to his roof deck. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that the mold growth was in his home and he did not want his family living in the home with a potential health concerns.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were referred to him by a previous customer of ours who was also his friend. We had a detailed explanation during the inspection with the homeowner which built trust that we would be the right company to fix his problems within the attic and also provide him with an opportunity to save money on his utility bills. Our solution was to remove all the insulation from the attic floor, remove the insulation that was blocking the soffits, install baffles into the soffit's to insure proper air flow, remediate mold in the attic, air seal all the penetrations on the attic floor (Ex. top plates, wire penetrations) cover the can light with a rockwool can light cover, air seal and insulate the scuttle cover, and reinsulate the attic floor with cellulose insulation to R60. During the installation process we did face the challenge of a low pitch roof which made moving around the attic a bit difficult especially when removing the insulation in the eave. We used a combination of products to achieve our end results. We used Mold X2 products, DuroVent baffles, SilverGlo foam board and weather-stripping, ZypFoam, TiteShell can light covers and TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has a clean healthy attic that has been properly air sealed and insulated to the maximum recommended insulation R-value for energy efficiency in Zone 5 of Michigan.

  The upstairs level of the home was always more hot or cold depending on the season than the rest of the home below. Mold in the attic was also a problem explained by the homeowner. The upstairs level of the home was much warmer at the time of inspection than the floor below. Visual mold was covering about 75% of the roof deck. Blocked soffits without baffles and lack of ventilation in the attic caused mold to grow on the roof deck and trusses. The Attic was under insulated with encapsulated fiberglass insulation that was torn due to foot traffic within the attic. A drop down shower ceiling soffit was also left uncovered allowing humidity to leak into the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he joined us in the attic for the inspection and was able to see how having the soffits blocked and being under insulated was causing moisture to build up in the attic and cause mold to grow. The homeowners biggest concern was getting the mold removed from the attic and better insulating his attic to better control the heating/cooling of the rooms below.

  The homeowner chose TCI Remediation to do the project because during the inspection of the attic we were able to demonstrate what needed to be done in a clear and informative way that made sense to the homeowner to fix the problem within the attic. We build a level of trust with the homeowner to ensure him that our solution would take care of the mold problem and provide a more comfortable home. We treated the mold in the attic and covered the drop down ceiling with SilverGlo and air sealed it tight. We then cleared the soffits of insulation and installed the proper amount of baffles to insure the attic was breathing properly. We capped off the existing insulation with TruSoft Cellulose to get the attic to a R-60 R-value to reduce the risk of moisture leaking into the attic from the conditioned home and to provide a better thermal barrier between the attic floor and the rooms below the attic. We had difficulties getting the SilverGlo into the attic scuttle due to the size of the opening. We had to cut smaller pieces which made the job take a little bit longer than usual. We used MoldX2 and MoldX2 Botanical to rid the attic mold. We also used a combination of insulation products including TruSoft Stabilized Cellulose and SilverGlo Polystyrene Foam Board. Zyp Foam was used to air-seal the drop down soffit above the shower. DuroVent duel wide baffles were installed for proper ventilation from soffits. The Homeowner now has a mold free attic and a better insulated attic that will provide a more comfortable home.

  The homeowner explained that his energy bills were abnormally high and that he could tell that his home was warm in the summer and cool in the winter even when the HVAC was running all the time. The home was hot in the summer and cool in the winter. The HVAC system would turn on right after shutting off. Rooms below the attic were uncomfortable and not keeping a constant temperature to what the thermostat was set at. Lack of insulation in the attic containing only R-19 batt fiberglass. In Zone 5 of Michigan, it is recommended to have between R-49 to R-60 on the attic floor. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he was tired of spending so much money on his energy bills and not being comfortable in his home with the amount of money on energy he was spending. The homeowners biggest concern with the problem was that he was not comfortable in his home. 

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to show him through thermal imaging how warm his ceiling was during the summer and how that heat radiating down into his conditioned space was the contributing factor as to why he was having warmer rooms in the summer and cooler rooms during the winter months. Our solution was to add more insulation to his existing batt insulation because the fiberglass was still in pristine conditioned and we could provide him with a better thermal boundary between his conditioned space and the attic by getting his existing insulation to R-60. The attic was a multi level attic and getting down to the lower portion of the attic proved difficult as we had to climb down utilizing a ladder built along the wall between the upper and lower level attic with only 3' of clearance between the roof deck and top plate. We utilize multiple products to achieve our end results. We used DuroVent Baffles, ZypFoam, SilverGlo and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a more comfortable home and is saving money on energy bills the same day. 

  The homeowner explained to us that his floors would get cold in his tri-level home and that he was not able to keep the heat and/or cool air in the home to regulate a comfortable living temperature. The home had two attics both which had R-30 batt insulation and a non-vented crawl space that was not insulated. The problems caused with not being able to keep heat and/or cold air in the home was in MI it is recommended that the attic floor contains between R-49 and R-60 insulation and the subfloor in his crawl space was not insulated meaning the subfloor did not contain a thermal boundary between the ground floor and the subfloor. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he could see how not having a properly insulated attic and no insulation in his crawl space was causing discomfort in his living space and impacting his energy bills. The biggest concern the homeowner had was making sure that his home was energy efficient and able to hold its temperature for longer periods of time before his HVAC would come back on. 

  Our customer chose our company because we were very thorough with the tour for two showing what causes of the problems were and how we would best rectify the problem. Our solution for the main floor attic was to remove all of the insulation from the attic floor, air seal the attic floor and then install all new duel wide baffles with freshly blown R-60 cellulose insulation. For the top floor attic, it was too short to remove the insulation so instead we did a cap off of cellulose insulation on top of his existing Batt insulation to get that attic to an R-60 value and to regain the R-value lost by using Batt insulation. For the crawl space we installed R-19 faced Batt insulation between the floor joists on the subfloor in his crawl space to act as a thermal boundary for his floors above. When inspecting the main floor attic, Vermiculite was found under roughly 1/4 of the batt insulation on his attic floor. We had to call an asbestos company who came out and had taken samples to the lab to test for asbestos. Test came back negative so we were able to proceed. The other challenge that we faced was the height of the crawl space made it difficult to move around. The crawl space was 3ft tall from ground to subfloor. We used a combination of products to insulate the home. We used TruSoft Cellulose, ZypFoam, DuroVent Baffles, SilverGlo, foam board insulation and weather strips for the hatch covers and Owens Corning R-19 Batt insulation. The homeowner now has an energy efficient attic and crawl space allowing him to live more comfortably in his home while also saving money.